Kashmir

India · India

Kashmir

Mughal gardens and Himalayan quiet

5–8 nightsFrom ₹95,000 per personIndian Rupee (INR)

Overview

Overview

Kashmir at its best is not a checklist of viewpoints. It is a shikara at dawn when the lake is glass, saffron fields at Pampore in late October, a Wazwan lunch cooked by a family who have done it for generations, and Gulmarg's meadows without another vehicle in sight.

We use the small number of genuinely excellent properties — a restored heritage houseboat, a Dachigam-facing retreat, a Gulmarg lodge — and pair them with guides who are Kashmiri, not seasonal.

When to go

Best time to visit

April and May for tulips, blossom and snow-capped views; September and October for chinar colour and saffron. December to February for snow and Gulmarg skiing.

Spring

Apr – May

Tulip garden, almond blossom, snow still on the peaks.

Peak

Summer

Jun – Aug

Warm and green; ideal for Pahalgam, Sonamarg and trekking.

Good

Autumn

Sep – Nov

Chinar trees turning, saffron harvest, our favourite light.

Peak

Winter

Dec – Feb

Snow, Gulmarg gondola and skiing; some passes close.

Good

Practical

Visa, currency, weather and flights

Visa

Domestic travel for Indian nationals — no permits needed for Srinagar, Gulmarg, Pahalgam or Sonamarg. Foreign nationals travel freely too, though we advise on current advisories and route selection.

Currency

Indian Rupee (INR). Cards are accepted in hotels and larger stores. Carry cash for shikara rides, handicrafts and roadside kahwa.

Weather

Temperate with real seasons — genuine snow in winter, mild summers, crisp autumns. Nights are cold even in May.

Flights

Direct flights to Srinagar from Delhi (1h 25m), Mumbai and Bengaluru. Morning departures are strongly preferable — afternoon Srinagar arrivals are more prone to weather diversions.

PeriodTemperatureNotes
Mar – May8–22°CBlossom then tulips; carry a light jacket
Jun – Aug15–30°CWarmest; the classic escape from the plains
Sep – Nov5–20°CChinar colour, saffron, clear mountain views
Dec – Feb-4–8°CSnow, frozen Dal margins, skiing at Gulmarg
Delhi → Srinagar1h 25m non-stopIndiGo, Air India, SpiceJet, Vistara
Mumbai → Srinagar2h 45m non-stopIndiGo, Air India
Bengaluru → Srinagar (1 stop)5h – 6hIndiGo via Delhi

Where to stay

Hotels we recommend

The Lalit Grand Palace

Srinagar · Heritage palace

The Lalit Grand Palace

The Maharaja's former residence in fifteen acres of chinar gardens.

Sukoon Houseboat

Dal Lake · Luxury houseboat

Sukoon Houseboat

Restored walnut-wood interiors and the best breakfast on the lake.

Khyber Himalayan Resort

Gulmarg · Mountain resort

Khyber Himalayan Resort

Log-and-stone luxury at 8,700 ft with a L'Occitane spa.

Vivanta Dal View

Srinagar · 5-star

Vivanta Dal View

Above the lake with the widest panorama in the city.

Welcomhotel Pine-n-Peak

Pahalgam · Riverside

Welcomhotel Pine-n-Peak

On the Lidder river, walking distance from the pine forest trails.

Highlights

Things to do

Dawn shikara on Dal Lake

Dawn shikara on Dal Lake

Out at 5.30am for the floating vegetable market before the tourist boats.

Wazwan lunch with a waza family

Wazwan lunch with a waza family

A private, properly explained tarami — rista, gushtaba, tabak maaz.

Saffron fields at Pampore

Saffron fields at Pampore

Late October only. Purple fields at first light, then a grading demonstration.

Gulmarg gondola to Apharwat

Gulmarg gondola to Apharwat

Phase two to 13,780 ft; skiing in winter, meadow walks in summer.

Papier-mâché and pashmina ateliers

Papier-mâché and pashmina ateliers

Meeting GI-certified weavers in the old city, learning to spot the fakes.

Suggested route

Our suggested Kashmir journey

  1. 1

    Arrive Srinagar

    Houseboat check-in, sunset shikara, Wazwan dinner.

  2. 2

    Mughal gardens

    Nishat, Shalimar, Pari Mahal, then old-city ateliers.

  3. 3

    Gulmarg

    Drive up, gondola to Apharwat, night at Khyber.

  4. 4

    Pahalgam

    Betaab valley, Aru meadows, Lidder river walk.

  5. 5

    Sonamarg or Doodhpathri

    Thajiwas glacier or the quieter meadows west of Srinagar.

  6. 6

    Srinagar

    Dawn floating market, Dachigam park, saffron in season.

  7. 7

    Depart

    Morning transfer to Srinagar airport.

Questions

Frequently asked

Guest stories

What our travellers say

The 5.30am shikara to the floating market was pure magic — completely empty. And the Wazwan at a waza's home beat every hotel version.

Shalini & Aakash Gupta

Delhi · Kashmir, 6 nights

Fourth visit to Kashmir and the first time I saw the saffron harvest properly. Azulo timed the whole trip around it.

Iqbal Ahmed

Lucknow · Kashmir autumn, 7 nights

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